Setup
Wider string spacing
I've read that Rob Ickes prefers a wider string spacing on his 'horns. I've also read that a wider spacing helps with things like slants with open string combinations. That makes sense to me. The string spacing is wider on my weissenborn than my dobros and slant/open string combos are much easier on the weissie. So I've been thinking about taking my resos to someone who can create a new nut and saddle with a wider string spacing (maybe I'll have to go the flared nut route, I'm not sure). Before I do, I wanted to hear from the community first: while the advantages of a wider string spacing seem pretty clear to me, are there any disadvanteges?
Noob with some basic setup questions
I just got my first reso 3 weeks ago, a Regal RD52, which has the upgrades I thought would need, but it seems that the nut is a bit too low (about 5/16 ths from the fretboard to the bottom of the strings) and the maple bridge has settled to where the strings are a bit too close to the coverplate. The string height is the same from the bridge to the nut, with no buzzing or rattles, but I hit the coverplate a bit too often with my picks. I realize that some of this is my green condition, but all the setup info I can find suggest that the string height should be 3/8 to 7/16 at the nut, corresponding at the bridge. I'm thinking of getting another bone nut and using it with the Beard ebony-tipped maple saddle peices I ordered. Am I on the right track? The sound is pretty dang good, at least to my ears, so I hope to not degrade that. And just to wear my welcome a little more, are there any instructors near the Pinehurst/Southern Pines area in NC?
TIA,
read more »Shop Tips: Padding Your Tailpiece
Over the past few years, I've seen, setup and played guitars of all makes and models. One thing they almost all had or needed was some way to dampen the area between the tailpiece and the coverplate. This area is notorious for potential buzzes and rattles. People have used different materials from leather strips to foam rubber for padding. Initially, I cutout foam pieces and placed them under the tailpeice, but they moved around and didn't look very good. Adhering the bumper to the tailpiece was a great step because it eliminates the possibility of the piece sliding around and requiring adjustment. I initially got the idea of using adhesive velcro from Tim Scheerhorn. This is my variation.
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